https://www.vogue.com/article/albert-hammond-jr-strokes-tour-custom-suit-fitting

WILD

Bespoke suit for Hozier

-VOGUE June 2015

Wild Irish Rose

Bespoke suit for Adam Driver

-VOGUE September 2013

Family Values

Bespoke suit for Alec Baldwin

-VOGUE May 2013

Grand Entrance

Bespoke suit for Benjamin Millepied

-VOGUE November 2014

Custom suit for Alexandra Blair of The Silk War

-VOGUE July 2021

https://www.vogue.com/article/alexandra-blair-le-grand-strip-the-silk-war-cc-mcgurr-vintage

Amber Doyle is a bespoke tailor and designer specializing in custom suiting. Her clients include Turbonegro, Janelle Monae and Snoop Dogg, as well as non-famous people who appreciate the artistry of a well-made suit. Aiming to change the world one suit at time, Doyle gave Playboy some tips for suiting neophytes.

Where do men most often go wrong when they buy a new suit?

"The worst things are the most obvious things," says Doyle. And while one might assume certain “obvious things” to be common knowledge—that, say, a Long Island Iced Tea is a guaranteed hangover or that the Babadook is openly gay—spend a morning walking around Midtown and you’ll realize nothing should be taken for granted. So, once more with gusto: Gentlemen, after you buy a new suit off the rack, remove those threads tacking your jacket vents closed before you go out in public. “It doesn’t matter where you buy your suit,” says Doyle. “If you leave those white threads—not cute. Or when you leave the label on the wrist. It’s not a good look.” Doyle has been known to assist hapless strangers she sees on the street, a kind of folk hero for the sartorially challenged. “I’ll try and do it with a smile and a nudge. ‘Oh my god, something’s on your jacket. Let me get that off,’ and I’ll send him on his way.”

Similarly, "it doesn’t matter how expensive or inexpensive a suit is if it doesn’t fit right." While fit, to a certain extent, depends on personal taste and the silhouette of the moment, there are a few rules Doyle swears by. “When you’re wearing a suit jacket with a button-down shirt underneath, you should always have a ¼ inch to ½ inch of cuff showing.” Like a Victorian ankle, “showing that little bit of stark white shirt cuff is so becoming and handsome and shocking.” 
For pant length, mind your break. While Doyle likes the look of a cropped leg, "for a work suit, it’s too much. I think it’s nice when the hem has a heavy fall on the shoe and has a bit of a break—which means there’s a little crease in the pant leg when it hits the shoe. So when you walk or sit down it doesn’t kick up too high."
Your jacket should also fit proportionally on your body. Doyle cautions that "if a jacket is too long, it’s overwhelming. If a jacket is too short, it looks like you’re in a shrunken suit, and unless it’s by Thom Browne, it’s probably not done right." A general guideline is that, when your arms are down by your sides, the bottom hem of your jacket should hit right around the first knuckle of your thumb. Cavemen, disregard.

Proper fit aside, what should men should look for when they buy a suit?If you’re just starting out and looking to purchase your first proper suit, "a charcoal or a navy is always in style." But the current Guccification of fashion sees suiting moving away from the Mad Men-inspired silhouettes that dominated the last decade and toward a more 70s-era glam. Doyle, for one, is psyched. “I welcome a big lapel. I love velvet and jewel tones and metallics and prints. But this is coming from a human who believes in fantasy and glamour and rock-and-roll.” If you’re not quite ready to go full gold lamé tuxedo (although Doyle thinks you should strongly consider one), she recommends taking some risks with a sports jacket. "You can be a little more playful with it. With just the jacket, it’s not all one color of something very bold." And if a double-breasted suit reminds you of Gordon Gekko or a guy who’s about to make you an offer you can’t refuse, it’s time to reassess. Says Doyle, “I really love that people are doing double-breasted suits again. I just think they’re so flattering. People have this idea that if you wear a double-breasted suit you appear bigger, but actually it’s very slimming because you have to keep it buttoned for it to look clean and polished.”
If you can afford it, Doyle recommends investing in a suit that will be with you for years to come, whether it’s bespoke or by a high-end designer. "There’s nothing sexier than a really fine suit on a man—or a woman. That suit should last you a very long time if it’s made well. It’s not disposable. It’s not fast fashion. It should be timeless." With an inexpensive suit, you’ll likely be looking at a polyester blend fabric as opposed to a super 200 worsted wool cloth, for example, and the jacket will almost certainly be fused rather than canvased. What does that mean? In order for a suit jacket to conform to your torso correctly, the outer fabric is attached to a canvas interfacing—a stiffer fabric traditionally made from horsehair that makes the difference between a tailored construction and a drapey poncho. A quality suit will feature canvas hand-stitched directly to the fabric, whereas mass-produced suits instead use a fusible interfacing that is essentially glued on. Doyle cautions, “Just through going to the dry cleaners and normal care, a fused jacket will start to pucker after a while. Whereas with a fully canvassed suit, the canvas starts to mold to your body. It basically becomes a part of you.”
Why should you care?While a suit may not make the man (trust us when we say there are plenty of assholes walking around in beautiful Italian wool), there is a particular je ne sais quoi that radiates off a man in a well-made, expertly fitted suit—and that’s what drives Doyle. "I always liked the idea that you put something on and it transforms you. It can change your energy and outlook for the day, give you extra magical powers. Especially with a suit that fits well and feels great. You see it; when somebody puts it on, they get this extra boost of confidence. I love the concept that clothing does that. I believe in that."

-Mackenzie Fegan

Custom suit for Paris Hilton 

-ALEXA  March 16th, 2017

Hillary’s Got Nothing on these Hot Pantsuits

“It’s a powerful way to stand out in the crowd,” says bespoke tailor Amber Doyle, who notes that about 40 percent of the clients who come to her Lower East Side shop are women, compared with almost none when she first started selling her suitseight years ago.

When 31-year-old director Remy Bennett wanted to create a stir for the debut of her first film last year, she turned to Doyle.

“I really love dresses, but I felt like it was the last thing I would wear to a show or film premiere,” says the Lower East Side resident. “You see all these grown women on the red carpet decked out like debutantes, and it doesn’t feel modern.”
Bennett ended up settling on a Bianca Jagger-inspired white raw-silk pantsuit, with a dash of 1940s femme fatale mixed in.

“I felt confident and relaxed and just so much like myself,” she says. “And I can mix and match the pieces and wear it to dinner or work.”

-Raquel Laneri

Say Goodbye to the Traditional Wedding Dress - The Bianca Jagger Homage

Fort Greene, Brooklyn, resident Hayley Elisabeth Kaufman always knew she’d marry wearing pants. “I was obsessed with Bianca Jagger for a long time,” says the 36-year-old fashion copywriter, citing the model’s creamy suit for her 1971 wedding to Mick Jagger.

So when she got engaged, Kaufman sought out Brooklyn tailor Martin Greenfield. He only makes men’s suits, so he recommended Lower East Side-based Amber Doyle, and three fittings later, Kaufman had a custom vest, jacket and pants in a silk wool blend.

“Everyone assumed I would wear a vintage, Edwardianesque dress,” says the boho bride. Her $3,000 suit, which she still wears as separates, won raves. “I really didn’t know you could wear a suit to your wedding,” she says, “and feel like you’re wearing an Oscar de la Renta gown.”

-Raquel Laneri

6 Back-to-School Outfits That Made Us Feel Invincible

Amber Doyle : Custom Tailor

I went to a Catholic school through eighth grade, and I always wore funky shoes or crazy tights to make my uniform stand out. But I went to a public high school and got to wear whatever I wanted: I remember the pressure of getting dressed — I was curious and excited. I would come to school in costume. I think I realized really young, looking at fashion magazines growing up in this supersmall town outside of Chicago, that fashion was all about creating a fantasy, and I could create my own world with my clothes.

I actually thought everyone looked so cool in high school: You had the kids who wore the mod suit and tie, you had the kids who wore plaid bondage pants and green hair, and you had the preppy girls with polo shirts. It helped that I could make my own clothes: I did a little of everything. I remember one look with patterned tights and a mod dress. And another time I wore a pencil skirt and did my hair in pin-curls like a pin-up. I would wear patent leather and tease my hair like Siouxsie Sioux. I usually made my own clothes or bought vintage, but I remember in high school saving money to buy these reissued Vivienne Westwood pirate boots. I worked my butt off selling my clothes and babysitting to afford those shoes. And then nobody understood them! But I thought they were the biggest deal.  

-Raquel Lanier

Yes, We're Open

-New York Times 2009

Bill Cunningham's - Men's wear Revolution

"A star of the movement, Domenico Spano, known to the world of custom tailoring and fastidious style as Mimmo, outside the Bowery atelier Against Nature.  His style has drawn the focus of a group of young men." -Bill Cunningham

-New York Times 2014

Bespoke Again

"Amber Doyle and Jake Mueser, graduates of the Fashion Institute of Technology, have opened up their second shop..." 

-New York Times 2011

Julia's Thursday

Fall 2012 Ready to Wear

"Minutes before the start of her Fall presentation—which had a campy magic show theme—Tara Subkoff was in full-on stage director mode. "Pretend that you're in The Artist!" she urged the models, who were encouraged to vamp it up in their role as magician's assistants. "Can you try doing a dramatic reveal and twirl with the cape?" The Imitation of Christ designer, after all, loves the theatrical side of fashion, and her clothes often have a costumey quality about them. 

This season featured a collaboration with bespoke tailoring label Doyle Mueser, and the collection was full of fitted pantsuits (think Jerry Hall in the seventies) and sexed-up spins on menswear. There were a couple of fun ideas: Subkoff scooped the arm and shoulder out of a crisp white button-down shirt and paired it with a slit-to-there pencil skirt. And playing on white-tie dressing, she reworked the men's formalwear vest into floor-length satin, adding cool grosgrain belt details in back. The collection as a whole, however, was a bit more gimmick and Gatsby-era romp than real magic."

-Style.com 

A Costume Tour of This Year’s Twisted Festival Gem: Buttercup Bill

Inspiration For The Strip-Club Scene Outfit

"Amber Doyle custom-made this top for me to emulate Jodie Foster's look from Taxi Driver," says Bennett. These are the Doyle's sketches." - Remy Bennett

-NYMagazine 2014

Bespoke Creator by Alexander Thompson

"PONYBOY:  Where do you personally get your inspiration from?

AMBER DOYLE:  I pull a lot of inspiration from different time periods and different music scenes. Probably the biggest influence to me in terms of decades are the mid-50’s to the mid-70’s, which I would consider the heyday of rock-n-roll style. The teddy boys, the mods, glam rock, disco and punk all influenced menswear in that period; and people were doing entirely new things with suits. Mods brought back a really sharp and clean look, and my favorite fabric, a wool/mohair blend, was the most popular suiting fabric for a while. Two of my personal tailoring heroes, Edward Sexton and Tommy Nutter, were making suits for people like the Rolling Stones and David Bowie that looked wild, with wide lapels, flare bottom trousers, rich colors and patterns–everything I love! I also have love and respect for Victorian Style and Art Nouveau, especially decor. I pull a lot of inspiration from film, as well, such as The Warriors, The Wizard of Oz, and Lawrence of Arabia."

Photography by Alexander Thompson

-Ponyboy Magazine 2014

Industry Insiders: Amber Doyle, Nature vs. Nurture

-BlackBook 2010

Best Custom Suits

Against Nature
"There’s no shortage of qualified tailors in New York. But not all of them will sketch a suit in front of you to your exact specifications. F.I.T. alum Amber Doyle and her partner, Jake Mueser, are meticulous tailors and collaborative designers, forgoing premade patterns to create suits from scratch (starting at a comparatively reasonable $2,500; about six weeks). Recent clients have asked for looks varying from “sleek with invisible seams” to “angular coattail and Victorian details.” There are thousands of fabrics to choose from, including Super 100 wools, cashmere, mohair, and silk; sourced suppliers include Dormeuil in Italy and Holland & Sherry in England. There’s even an in-house metalsmith if you want to order custom cuff links."

-New York Magazine 2010

An Impeccably Tailored Approach

Amber Doyle, Owner & Menswear Designer of Against Nature Atelier

"The pulse of the fashion industry has quickened in recent years, with a focus on fast production and trends. Regardless of the whims of fashion’s fads, it takes a passionate individual who is committed to craftsmanship and quality to create timeless, impeccably tailored clothing. Like Enter menswear designer Amber Doyle, who transforms the notion of typical suiting with her bespoke pieces that cater to NYC’s sharply dressed men.

Like a classic tailor from days gone by, Amber constructs clothing with the utmost concern for fit and style that caters to each individual’s taste—a hallmark of the art form. Her knowledge of high fashion, combined with an appreciation for the rock-and-roll style of the mid-’50s to mid-’70s, transforms the typical garment into a personalized statement for each client. So when Amber creates a garment for you, expect perfection—fashion-forward style from head to toe, down to the last seam.

Amber Doyle is one of a few individuals featured in the Lincoln Motor Company’s current print campaign for the all-new 2013 MKZ."

-Fast Company 2013

Lonelyville

-Odalisque Magazine 2015

-Interview Magazine Russia 2012

The New Amsterdam

-FLATT Magazine 2012

Janelle Monae

-FLATT Magazine 2013

Dance Theater of Harlem

-FLATT Magazine 2014

Miami Blue

-FLATT Magazine 2014

Stuart Weizman - A Step Beyond

-FLATT Magazine 2014

Race to the Trend

By Vincent Ugarao

..." For someone who had the art of sewing passed down through her family’s female generations, from grandmother to mother to her, and taught herself how to design and make clothes by destroying them and then putting them back together like a scene out of a Molly Ringwald movie, eventually including women’s suiting was a natural progression for Amber Doyle. In the process, she created a niche for Against Nature. “For women, it’s so rare, even at these bespoke houses, very rarely will they do women… they’re all a little scared of it and I think that’s really funny.” Perhaps because Against Nature is co-owned and co-operated by a woman, and perhaps because Amber Doyle is a young lady always drawn to tailored looks and military inspired details, the shop offers bespoke services to women as well as men. Or, rather, they offer bespoke services to women. As well as men. "

http://flattmag.com/features/race-trend/

-FLATT Magazine 2012

School Uniform?  Pantsuit's Better

'Changing the world one suit at a time'

She might have worn a uniform for nine years at St. Francis de Sales School in Lake Zurich, but Amber Doyle still made it look fashionable, adding crazy tights, stylish shoes and hair accessories.

Her knack for fashion became her career, and today, Doyle is a New York City designer who creates clothes for celebrities (including Janelle Monae's famous suit from the 2013 Grammys), Vogue magazine fashion shoots, movies and musicians.

"It's really fun to have this idea, put it on paper, and bring it to life. It's like you put some fairy dust on a sketch and it comes to life. I love the creation of clothing," Doyle said. "When you put something on that's beautiful and ornate, it transforms you. I really like that about clothing."

Doyle has her own self-titled fashion line (and previously, two New York boutiques). Her current collection, "Return to Glamour,"combines masculine and feminine styles for a look she describes as "Katharine Hepburn Hollywood starlet and glam, rock 'n' roll star."

Inspired by glamorous Hollywood looks from the 1930s, she designs clothes for both men and women using a lot of nontraditional menswear fabrics, such as boucle and leather, and cutting them in traditional, classic ways. She's a big fan of suits.

"I'm just changing the world one suit at a time," Doyle said, laughing. "I really love the pantsuit on the girl. I've been rockin' the pantsuit since high school. I love that it's shocking for a woman to wear a suit. For me, it's so easy and so basic."

Doyle's mother taught her how to sew at a young age. Her mom would make clothing for the family, and Amber started out making things like a purse out of scrap fabrics, and clothing for the dog.

At Lake Zurich High School, where she didn't have to wear a uniform anymore, Doyle's fashion sense blossomed. She got into art, underground music, punk and David Bowie. When Bowie's "A Reality Tour" came to Rosemont's Allstate Arena, none of her high school friends wanted to go. So Doyle had her mom drop her off and she went by herself.

"It was the most incredible show," she said.

Bowie's style would later influence Doyle's designs.

"He was really androgynous in the way that he never let clothing or idealism get in the way of what he wanted to say. He was so free and fantastical about the things that he wore," she said. "Musicians kind of really paint this image of this sound and vision."

Doyle loves to dress musicians, and she's done custom clothes and tour uniforms for several, including Chain and the Gang, DJ Jonathan Toubin, The Avett Brothers and Brian Newman (Lady Gaga's jazz bandleader and trumpet player). She also designed one of Sean Lennon's Grammy red carpet looks.

"I get excited coming up with new designs, and having them worn, and hearing back from the people I make these things for on how great it makes them feel," Doyle said. "It's a different thing when you make something for somebody. It's like wearing this piece of artwork."

Jonathan Toubin

Photography by Alexander Thompson

The Mast Brothers

-Muse Magazine 2009

She Bespoke feat. Amber Doyle

"A bespoke suit is one of the sexiest garments a person can own – man or woman.

Amber Doyle, designer and co-founder of Against Nature and Doyle Mueser, proves this point by looking stunning in some bespoke menswear.

“My mother taught me how to sew, just like her grandmother taught her, so I started designed my own clothes from a young age. I moved from the suburbs of Chicago to attend the Fashion Institute in NYC and, around that time, my friend Jake Mueser and I began designing suits and accessories for ourselves and our friends. In 2009 Jake and I, along with jewelry designer Ryan Matthew and denim tailor Simon Jacobs, opened Against Nature… The following year Jake and I opened our own shop, Doyle Mueser.’

Amber is a student of the game who loves tailored menswear and wears a bespoke suit almost every day. Here’s three of her favorites."

-Articles of Style 2013

A Formal Introduction

-Collection by Robb Report 2013

Zola Jesus

Harper's Bazaar - 2010

Mr. Blasberg's Best-Dressed

Sean Lennon at the 56th Grammy Awards

-Harper's Bazaar 2014

What's in Store

-Manhattan Magazine 2011

Ask the Experts

-New York Weddings 2013

-Celebrated Living 2011

Cat's Eyes

-Bust Magazine 2011

Video: The Portrait

Video: Made to Measure

Video: Art in Motion

Zola Jesus

-SPIN Magazine 2010

Wearing the Pants: An Interview with Amber Doyle

"...She hasn’t only expertly mastered her craft, she wears it well herself, and boasts an enviable wardrobe of tuxedo jackets and fitted pinstripe blazers. Amber stands out as a petite young woman in a male dominated business, and her business attracts those who appreciate the clash of rebelliousness and conformity. She creates suits for men and women who appreciate her skill for turning a traditional item into a statement piece." -Sonya Abrego

-The Hairpin 2015

The Old Oxford: The Lady in the Suit

"When you see a woman truly wearing a suit it catches your eye, and she is an image hard to forget.  When Balzac wrote that “If clothing is the whole man, it is even more so the whole woman,” in 1830, he probably didn’t envision Marlene Dietrich, Katherine Hepburn, Grace Jones, or Patti Smith transforming garments traditionally made for men into something subversive, iconic, and beautiful.  Amber Doyle is in that school of women who can wear a jacket and tie better than just about anybody–regardless of gender.  The suits she favors are a tactile embodiment of Balzac’s words, especially considering that she designs and sews her jackets and pants.  In lieu of models and mannequins, Amber wears her wares around the two bespoke ateliers she owns, Against Nature and Doyle Muser." -Jason Diamond

-Vol1Brooklyn 2013

Shelf Life

-NYO 2011

A VINTAGE BANQUET HALL WEDDING IN QUEENS, NEW YORK

Hayley & Gregg
Hayley and Gregg both sported custom suits by Amber Doyle at Against Nature. "We commissioned bespoke suits inspired by 70s-era 'it couple' Mick and Bianca Jagger to help carry over our theme."
-Martha Stewart Weddings 2011

Introducing The Lincoln Motor Company

-Lincoln Motors 2013

An Impeccably Tailored Approach

Amber Doyle, Owner & Menswear Designer of Against Nature Atelier

-Lincoln Now 2013

Babe.

-LadyGunn 2014